Iris Van Herpen: The Intersection of Fashion and Sculpture

In January 2024, I had the privilege of experiencing Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. This extraordinary exhibition showcased over a hundred of her haute couture masterpieces, offering an immersive journey into her world of artistry and innovation.

From the moment I stepped inside, I was mesmerized by the meticulous attention to detail in each and every design. A sculpted gown resembling a droplet of water, a cape inspired by the fluidity of wind, each piece felt alive, moving beyond simply fabric and into the realm of fine art. 

Dutch designer Iris van Herpen has redefined fashion, merging architecture, technology and craftsmanship into something entirely new. Raised in the small Dutch village of Wamel, Van Herpen’s strong connection to nature and background in classical dance shaped her visionary approach to design. 

Movement and fluidity are central to her work, bringing a live energy into each garment. This focus on organic movement was heightened by the exhibition’s multisensory experience. Immersive sounds and visuals replicating elements like water, air, and life itself guided visitors through the space, reinforcing the natural inspirations at the forefront of her creations. 

Van Herpen’s influences stretch beyond fashion, drawing inspiration from visionaries like Wim Delvoye, Kate MccGwire, Damien Jalet, Kohei Nawa, Casey Curran, Rogan Brown, Jacques Rougerie, Ren Ri, Ferruccio Laviani, Philip Beesley and Tomáš Libertíny. Her ability to merge haute couture with fields like architecture and science sets her apart from other designers. 

After specifying her craft with designers such as Alexander McQueen and Claudy Jongstra, she founded Maison Iris van Herpen in 2007. She decided to establish her practice in Amsterdam, one of Europe’s most vibrant artistic hubs. 

One of the exhibitions’ most striking elements was its first room, dedicated to the theme of water. Each piece reflected the fluidity and movement of water, creating a space where fashion was transformed from its physical form into a sensory experience. 

Unlike a traditional museum exhibit, Sculpting the Senses was far more immersive, it was an environment designed not just to be observed but felt. I could not help but notice the undivided attention of each visitor. Each step brought a new mind-blowing masterpiece into view, and each visitor stopped to carefully inspect as if they were deciphering a visual puzzle. 

The mastery of materials was astonishing, from 3D-printed gowns to leather coated in metal foil. Van Herpen’s fearless use of non-traditional materials is one of the many reasons why she is so highly praised in the fashion industry today. She transforms clothing into art work. Van Herpen proves that innovation in fashion does not just lie in aesthetics, but in reinvention of craftsmanship itself. 

Before experiencing this exhibition, I admired Van Herpen’s work from afar. After witnessing her intricate creative process, I became captivated, not just by her designs, but by the sheer depth of her vision. Standing in front of her designs, I found myself stunned, grappling with how an individual could create something so intricately beautiful – so otherworldly. 

Van Herpen has independently carved out a singular path, blending haute couture with technology, architecture, science and movement. Sculpting the Senses was more than an exhibition, it was an exploration of how fashion can transform into something far beyond clothing, into art, storytelling, and life itself. 

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